Today marks the 10-year anniversary of my very first blog post. Without getting too deep or introspective, I want to share a handful of takeaways a decade in the making. Thinking back to a line from my first post, “I’m not Gwyneth and certainly not Oprah, but an honest non-tastemaker with exceptionally good taste,” feels a tad self-confident. But… here I am, toasting the 10-year wrap-up, grateful for your trust over the years. So, without further ado, the following scoop has been shaped by countless mailers, an insane amount of product I’ve tested on my face, and hundreds of events at which I always make an effort to learn something.
INTENTIONAL CLEANSING IS A GAME CHANGER
Nothing good (or effective) happens unless you properly cleanse your face. You don’t have to double cleanse–unless you regularly wear a YouTube tutorial amount of makeup. I find that intentional cleansing is key. What makes it intentional? Pick the formula that works best with your skin (non-irritating, preferred texture, etc.) and commit to massaging it into your skin for a full minute or two. I may spend a little extra time on areas prone to congestion and at the hairline to ensure I buff away every trace of product, pigment, and impurities.
Using my fingers, I apply gentle pressure around my nose and use outward strokes to stimulate lymphatic drainage. It’s actually very relaxing. If I’m washing my face sink-side, I reach for a Clean Skin Club Towel that I first soak in very hot water. This quick ritual always results in comfortably clean and supple skin that is never tight or dry. Current favorites include Alastin Gentle Cleanser, Votary Cleansing Cream, Kiehl’s Ultra Facial Cleaner.
LIQUID STEPS MAY BE OPTIONAL (BUT THEY HELP)
It was forever ago that I first learned about toners. Back in the late 90s and early aughts, you needed a toner to swipe away the residue left behind by your cleanser. To me, this seemed like all that was needed was a better cleanser. In my thirties, essences became all the rage. Both liquid steps are meant to be applied to the skin directly after cleansing. I don’t follow a multi-step routine that includes both, but rather my efforts with one effective toner OR essence.
If my skin is craving extra hydration, I cannot rave enough about the Orveda Vital Sap (patted directly into skin). On days on which I want to incorporate microexfoliation, the Chantecaille or Royal Fern formulas are both pretty perfect (applied with cotton pads). Of late, Bioeffect EGF Essence has been the unexpected find I’ve been enjoying most. I swear, my skin hasn’t looked this good since the beginning of the new year.
PHYSICAL EXFOLIATORS ARE NOT THE DEVIL
I’m not saying everyone needs to use a physical exfoliant. You know your skin best and if friction leads to redness or irritation, this method of sloughing off dead cells is simply not for you. My combination skin, however, thrives after an occasional scrub. Usually, I aim for once a week and use it as my sole morning cleanse.
On dry skin, I start with a generous dollop of my favorite Cranberry Gommage by ARCONA just before stepping into the shower. I then slowly add water and apply gentle pressure. The combination of jojoba beads, volcanic minerals, and fruit enzymes effectively refines, smoothes, and decongests my skin in just a few minutes. Did I mention it evokes the scent of a juicy, tart cranberry? If you want something super gentle, I highly recommend Versed Day Maker as the go to budget-friendly option. P.S. I have been using physical exfoliants for 25 years and can attest to no long-term damage, which I’d imagine would have shown up by now.
SIMPLICITY = EFFICACY
I cringe at unnecessarily complicated routines that combine a dizzying amount of ingredients.
When it comes to Vitamin C serums, Retinol creams, and especially acid toners or peel pads–start off slowly! I can’t emphasize the importance of taking baby steps. Finding a perfect and effective serum is half the battle. It’s all about successfully incorporating it into your daily routine. Mixing and layering in the beginning is not recommended.
I stick to Vitamin C during the day, Retinol every other night, and a gentle acid toner a few days a week, usually in the morning. When I’m on a P50 1970 kick, I typically take a break from Retinoids. I’m also cautious about peel pads and incorporate them accordingly, depending on which other exfoliants are in rotation. Most importantly, I rarely use more than 5 products in either my AM or PM self-care sequence. Cleanse, treat, moisturize, protect. That’s really all you need to know.
EYE CREAMS DO WORK
For years, many tried to convince me that eye creams were superfluous. When Paula Begoun ran a tight ship at Paula’s Choice, she never missed the opportunity to call eye creams out as 100% marketing and lacking evidence to back their necessity. Paula’s Choice now offers 5 different formulas. My philosophy is a bit more personal. This summer, I am turning 44 and have yet to try injectables around the eyes. Ever. I can’t spot a single line, which I attribute to my obsessive eye cream habit.
I used Clarins Total Eye (gel and cream) diligently day and night throughout my twenties. Over the last ten or so years, I’ve been rotating among the latest launches and couldn’t be happier with the results. My favorites at the moment: RéVive Firming Eye Cream, In Fiore Veloutée, and Valmont DetO2x Eye.
FACE OILS REQUIRE A LEARNING CURVE
Someone needs to say it: face oils are not easy to embrace. If you look at the beauty landscape globally, you may notice the almost complete absence of face oils in Europe and Asia. These markets are all about lotions and creams that leave a spectrum of finishes from super dewy to ultra matte. Stateside, it’s impossible to find a brand that does not have an oil in their line up. Personally, I have found most to sit on my skin and rarely absorb. And, if I’m being honest, some have made me look borderline dirty, that is, until I tried blending one with my favorite Hyaluronic Acid serum.
By combining a face oil with a water-based treatment, the oil absorbs seamlessly without leaving a trace of shine or greasy slip. Another trick: apply a few drops of oil on a heavily misted face (a lot of thermal spring waters by French pharmacy brands are perfect for this). Damp skin makes the most ideal canvas for application of an oil. Since embracing this method, I have been able to enjoy face oils. Even during the day. My current favorites are Vintner’s Daughter, African Botanics Neroli Infused Marula Oil, and Lesse Ritual Serum.
WHAT I DO DURING A FACIAL
I treat every facial I get as a moment to learn. The uninterrupted time with a professional can be extremely rewarding for anyone who asks questions. During each treatment, I inquire about the product being used, the condition of my skin, and ask about realistic expectations vs results of whatever protocol is being followed, etc. This hour-long window helps me gain valuable knowledge about brands new to me, the innovation in device technology or the ingredient formulation, and most importantly, any product recommendations.
If it weren’t for a few of my most recent facials, I would never have discovered some phenomenal Environ products, nor would I have learned about correct peptide serum application (it always goes on first!). There’s never the need to talk the aesthetician’s ear off, but you’ll notice how much joy they get from sharing what they know.
A HEALTHY DOSE OF NOSTALGIA
When the constant skincare launches become overwhelming even to me, I can feel a little burnt out. It is then that I find solace in the products I’ve used for so long. This dose of nostalgia is pleasantly comforting. Luckily, a handful of iconic products have stood the test of time with unchanged formulas that continue to be embraced by loyalists and newbies alike. My favorites include Dermalogica special cleansing gel, Embryolisse Lait-Crème Concentré moisturizer, Estee Lauder Advanced Night Recovery, and Borghese Fango mud masks. I’ve used some of these brands and products for over twenty years…
DEVICES WORK (WHEN YOU USE THEM CONSISTENTLY)
The question I get most often is one about the benefits of beauty devices. Do they work? In short: yes. Here’s the catch: you have to be incredibly committed and use them diligently. At least for the first 60 days. Then, it’s maintenance time. There is no at-home device that will erase the signs of a night of binge drinking and sodium-rich foods after one use the following morning. If you want to see sculpted and lifted results, be realistic about the time you’ll need to invest. After years of trying, I realized I am just not a Gua-Sha person. With that said, I enjoy my 5-minute treatments with the Dr Dennis Gross LED Mask and NuFACE Trinity+, which I alternate most mornings. Both are remarkably effective.
IN CONCLUSION…
There is no need to obsess. Real skin has texture. It has discolorations. There are visible pores. We’re surrounded by and fed content by people (total strangers btw) who are filtered to oblivion. Skincare can help address a vast range of concerns, but we always need to keep expectations realistic. A topical product can only do so much. I’m a huge believer in splurge-worthy formulas but will be the first to admit, even The Rich Cream by Augustinus Bader is not a miracle worker. It is an incredible moisturizer and I’m a huge fan because it consistently has me looking great at 43. It does not, however, make me look 25.
Not every foaming cleanser is here to strip the skin of its natural oils. And added fragrance has yet to bother the droves of pharmacy shoppers all around Europe. I don’t meditate but am really good at stepping away from the madness and focusing on a 2-minute face cleansing ritual before bed. In closing, I wish you nothing but the best skin health. xB
