You’re Using Face Oil Wrong (Or Maybe I Am).
The first time someone told me about face oil was back in 1999 or 2000. A very good friend of mine would not shut up about the Clarins Blue Orchid Face Treatment Oil. She legit called it the best thing for her skin. At first, I was perplexed. Then I learned that Clarins actually makes face oils tailored to skin types, and the Lotus one was what I needed to try. And so I did. After all, I’m adventurous, no matter how intimidated.
At 20, I had no business adding face oil to my Yves Rocher and Neutrogena routine—but I did. Clarins Lotus Oil, no dropper, wide-neck glass bottle, and all. It didn’t work for me, but it stuck in my mind.
It wasn’t until about ten years ago that the beauty landscape started to refine the face oil category. The idea of “face oil” sounds both potent and exotic. Their popularity blew up seemingly overnight. These days, it’s nearly impossible to find a skincare brand that doesn’t include one. But the suggested application methods never worked for me. As a leave-on step, my normal-to-combination-but-sometimes-oily-yet-always-dehydrated skin had other plans. So I got creative. My hack has been working ever since, and it’s the only way I can actually enjoy using facial oil.
Damp Skin Is Key
My biggest problem with face oils was absorption. When I applied them to dry skin, they didn’t absorb so much as announce themselves, turning radiance into residue. But when applied to damp skin, the beads of water help propel the oil molecules into the uppermost layer of skin. It absorbs faster, works better, and leaves a non-greasy finish. Otherwise, no matter how little oil I used, the shine lingered for hours. Can anyone else relate?
Slightly off-topic but not really: applying body oil to still-damp skin after a shower is the way to go. It makes a noticeable difference—and the logic holds for your face, too.
This method also makes face oil daytime-friendly. Applied on damp skin or mixed with a serum, it sinks in fast and plays nice with whatever comes next—SPF, makeup, or tinted sunscreen (my go-to). No pilling, no sliding, no looking like your face is trying to shed its layers by noon. If I ever put pigment over straight-up oil, it’s a disaster. This way, everything stays where it should.
A Face Mist Helps
Plain water works just fine, but I find thermal spring waters to be ideal here. Luxury face mists are the most optional step in any skincare routine, so this is a great place to cut corners. Personally, I’ve repurchased the Avène Thermal Spring Water more than anything else. It’s soothing, hydrating, and the nozzle dispenses such a fine mist—it’s perfect for prepping before oil. Caudalie Grape Water feels like a slightly posher option. I’ve also used Mario Badescu mists over the years, which are affordable and do the job.
Mixing with HA Serum
On days (or evenings) when I use an acid toner, I tweak the method. Since I prefer my skin to dry in between exfoliation and hydration, I wait a few moments before moving to the next step. Then I reach for whichever hydrating serum I have in rotation. Hyaluronic acid serums are excellent for mixing with facial oils.
When I want to elevate the experience, I opt for something HA-based but also packed with peptides, growth factors, or exosomes. If I had to guess, I usually use about half a dropper of serum and five drops of oil, blended in the palm of my hand and pressed into the skin. The result is smooth, nourishing, and never greasy.
One thing I never do? Mix face oil with vitamin C serums. Most of them are carefully calibrated for pH and stability, especially the L-ascorbic acid kind. Adding oil on top—or worse, into it—feels like tampering with lab work. I’d rather let the actives do their thing uninterrupted.
Mixing with Cream
My favorite nighttime shortcut is adding a few drops of face oil into my moisturizer. It’s a two-in-one move that ensures all the nourishing botanicals and actives are blended in a single step. And since I’m usually exhausted by the time I’m ready for bed, I do this often.
I’ve never found that this tactic reduces the efficacy of my cream. In fact, I do this with stronger retinoids too. The oil acts as a built-in buffer, which helps minimize irritation without compromising results.
Oil Before Cream—Always
If you’re wondering whether face oil goes before or after cream, here’s my take. And it’s not just mine—it came straight from celebrity aesthetician Mila Moursi. At a SpaceNK event years ago, she made her stance very clear: oil before cream.
Why? Because if you apply oil after your moisturizer, it just sits on top. Oil is the pure form of a cream. Its texture and molecular weight allow it to sink in more easily. Once I heard that, I never layered the same way again.
Formula Matters
After trying countless face oils, I’ve learned that my skin prefers some over others. Marula works beautifully. Rosehip, not so much.
Interestingly, some plant oils have a lipid structure similar to our own sebum, which makes them more compatible. Jojoba, meadowfoam, marula, argan, and squalane tend to absorb quickly and feel like they belong on your face. Richer oils like coconut, rosehip, or tamanu can be heavier and less easily absorbed—especially if you’re not applying them on damp skin.
If one of those richer oils hasn’t worked for you in the past, try it again using the damp skin trick. It might completely change your experience.
Here’s My Tip
Ignore the founders and influencers who treat face oil like an on-camera performance. There is absolutely no reason for a dropper full of oil to hit your face—and definitely not for the applicator to glide across your cheeks like a paintbrush.
All you need are a few drops, warmed in the palm of your hand and pressed into damp skin. Your body heat helps with absorption, but the hydration from your mist or serum makes all the difference. Don’t knock it until you try it.
Face Oil Advice I Consider Unhinged
If someone says they carry face oil for midday touch-ups, I assume they also show up to happy hour looking like glazed ham. That kind of glow isn’t flattering.
And applying face oil on a plane? No thank you. Between recycled air, questionable tray tables, and the general chaos of flying, there’s no good reason for it. If you need extra moisture in-flight, go with a stick balm. The Kiehl’s one is excellent and packed with squalane.
Products I enjoy:
Face oils:
- African Botanics Nerfoli Infused Marula Oil
- Vintner’s Daughter Active Botanical Serum
- U Beauty The Super Intensive Face Oil
- Ranavat Saffron Brightening Serum
- Circa 1970 Face Oil
Face mists:
- Avène Thermal Spring Water
- Elemis Pro-Collagen Toning Mist
- Caudalie Grape Water
- Mario Badescu Facial Spray With Aloe, Herbs and Rosewater
Face serums:
- Jordan Samuel Hydrate
- Ursa Major Forest Therapy
- The Ordinary Niacinamide + Zinc
- Eighth Day Regenerative Serum
Moisturizers:
- Drunk Elephant Protini Polypeptide Cream
- La Mer Hydrating Infused Emulsion
- Paula’s Choice Barrier Repair Moisturizer
- Embryolisse Lait-Crème Concentré
This post contains affiliate links. If you click through and make a purchase, I may earn a small commission—at no cost to you. It helps keep my mist habit funded and this blog running. Thank you for reading.
