Look around any beauty retailer and you’ll agree that peptides appear to be the ingredient of the decade. The issue: navigating through the marketing buzz and countless claims to understand what they are and why we need them, which can be exhausting. Luckily, Maelove did the legwork for us prior to unveiling their Peptide Squad Collagen Renewal Serum. Almost three years in the making and the second trickiest product to formulate right behind Moonlight Retinal, the new launch is an excellent addition to the brand’s serum portfolio.
What are peptides?
Peptides are the building blocks of certain proteins, such as collagen and elastin. In layman’s terms, they’re what keep our skin supple, firm, and bouncy. It’s estimated that we lose 1% of our collagen every year after hitting our late twenties/early thirties. As if gravity weren’t enough! The good news: when applied topically, a well-formulated peptide serum or moisturizer can increase the skin’s firmness and deliver a noticeably more youthful appearance. The results aren’t miraculous and not anywhere near as dramatic as cosmetic procedures, but peptides do work. And they work well.
The Peptide Rabbit Hole
There are four categories of peptides, each of which delivers an anti-aging function: signal peptides, neurotransmitter inhibiting peptides, carrier peptides, and enzyme inhibiting peptides. Each category encompasses a variety of targeted peptides, some of which you are likely familiar with, for example, Copper Tripeptide-1 (a carrier peptide) or Matrixyl™ 3000 (a signal peptide), which is a patented blend of palmitoyl tripeptide-7 and palmitoyl tripeptide-1. This is only the most basic breakdown. The peptide rabbit hole is another dimension. Google at your own risk.
What is in the Maelove peptide serum?
Covering all the bases, Peptide Squad is powered by Copper Tripeptide-1 and Matrixyl™ 3000 to stimulate collagen synthesis, Argireline to deliver a Botox-like performance of affecting nerve-muscle communication, which decreases the depth of dynamic wrinkles (in areas most prone to expression), and rice peptides to visibly lighten age-related hyperpigmentation. If you’re counting, that’s all four categories. P.S. It’s the copper peptide that gives this new serum its intriguing blue hue.
The ingredient deck is multi-faceted and reaches beyond its anti-aging goals. Peptide Squad is also packed with skin-plumping Hyaluronic Acid, nourishing Jojoba Oil, soothing Bisabolol as well as Niacinamide to brighten overall tone and help with the appearance of enlarged pores. Did I mention a healthy dose of antioxidant-rich Green Tea, Neem Leaf, Turmeric, and Algae Extracts to prevent free radical damage? This Maelove formula is fantastic.
How to use Peptide Squad?
Prior to the launch of Peptide Squad and quite coincidentally, I was at an event with a celebrity aesthetician (whom I trust completely with my skincare questions) who weighed in on peptide use. Not only is Joanna Czech a huge fan of peptides, but she also taught me it’s crucial to apply them first on clean, dry skin. If you layer serums, be sure the peptide formula is first to go on because of their lower molecular structure. Peptides require ‘priority boarding’ to work before other treatments.
Another interesting fact: serums formulated with 3 to 5 peptides are the ones that work best. Those that promise a greater number are bound to underperform. Regarding application, the almost liquigel texture glides on the skin and absorbs instantly. Less than half of the dropper was plenty to cover my face and neck. Finally, Peptide Squad is safe to be used twice a day.
For 20 years, I’ve been told not to combine copper peptides and Vitamin C in the same sequence. But Malelove tested the copper used in Peptide Squad (aka Copper Tripeptide-1) and it proved to be a stable molecule. Since it does not oxidize with Vitamin C, it does not create free copper (Cu2+) and is therefore safe to layer with any Vitamin C serum. I wish more brands were as forthcoming and clear in explaining this matter.
Results, etc
It’s still a little early to comment on any wrinkle-related results, having only recently received my bottle of Peptide Squad pre-release (visible improvements typically require 4-6 weeks of consistent use). So, while I wait for the lines on my forehead to soften, I am reaping the serum’s instant hydrating, soothing, and anti-inflammatory benefits. Overall, I find this formula to be a perfect addition to my Maelove serum wardrobe.
