Familiarity with Biologique Recherche is the unspoken, invisible line that seems to divide the pundits from the amateurs in the skincare community. Since my first experience with the brand almost a decade ago, a bottle of lotion P50 1970 has been an on-again-off-again constant in my acid toner repertoire. This past summer, I treated myself to a jar of the Creme Masque Vernix and it may officially be my all-time favorite product from the brand. That means both Masque Vivant and Lait VIP O2 are each a notch lower on my BR totem pole. More below.
What is Creme Masque Vernix?
According to the label, Creme Masque Vernix is a ‘revitalizing, repairing and protective facial cream mask.’ It can also be used as a rinse-off or leave-on treatment. Its goal is very Benjamin Button: to recondition the epidermis and give it that ‘born again’ appearance one only associates with the moment our youth peaks. Biologique Recherche wants you to feel like a newborn, which is only a little bit eerie.
At just over $200, I knew there was no way I was applying a thick layer and rinsing it off after only 15 minutes. Instead, I use it as a night cream 2-3 times a week. Spoiler alert: I’m not aging backwards but the stuff is absolutely insane. It’s been a couple of months and every time I put it on, my face feels snatched. Literally. I cannot think of any other product that works like this. And I’ve tried plenty.
What’s Vernix though?
Vernix is the white slimy film that covers a baby at birth. It’s a highly protective, healing, and cell growth-stimulating cocoon. Biologique Recherche formulated a product that mimics that very environment. Following water, the second ingredient is Amniotic Fluid. It’s the liquid that surrounds the baby in the womb. I’m going to go out on a limb here but I believe BR uses a synthetic equivalent because otherwise… How would that work, exactly? Same goes for a few other INCI hits such as Hydrolyzed Placental Protein and Embryo Extract.
Additionally, the formula includes Luffa Cylindrica Seed Oil, which I have not otherwise encountered. Also known as Sponge Gourd, this potent anti-inflammatory botanical is rich in Arginine, which enhances hydration and repairs cellular damage. Masque Vernix contains Peptides and Ceramides as well, to strengthen and protect the skin moisture barrier.
Texture and scent of Creme Masque Vernix
Here is where things get interesting. The Creme Masque Vernix has a thick, creamy texture that absorbs so quickly, it’s almost uncanny. What’s truly unique is the tightening finish that feels like a corset on your face. Immediately, my skin embraces extra hydration and moisture but the feeling of firmness lasts all night. I am not sensitive to fragrance in skincare but this one has a rather peculiar scent. Especially the first time you try it. It’s neither funky nor fishy but for a minute, it’s somewhere in between. Luckily, the scent does not linger.
How I use it, results, etc
As mentioned earlier, I reach for my jar of Masque Vernix every other night as the last step in my skincare routine. Ideally, I cleanse, use a hydrating essence, apply my treatment serum of choice (usually Retinol), eye cream, and a thin layer of this Biologique Recherche miracle. On non-Retinol nights, I mix a few drops of my favorite facial oil with a dropper full of water-based hydrating serum, wait for it to absorb, and follow with a dab of Creme Masque Vernix. I don’t think I needed this product ten years ago. At 43, however, I most definitely notice my skin’s increased hydration and moisture levels as well as that bouncy yet comfortable tightness I took for granted not too long ago. This is one of only a few products I absolutely love but can’t find words to explain the magic behind it. It’s just that different.
$209 (50ml) at joannaczech.com
